Dominica, the Caribbean's hiking mecca.

The Caribbean conjures up images of sun-kissed islands, white sand beaches, and aquamarine waters: A reasonably authentic description. The vast majority of the islands located south of the Florida Keys and north of Venezuela offer visitors who stumble upon their shores exactly that. But not all things were created equal. And the Caribbean islands are no exception. While some islands are blessed with three hundred and sixty five white sand beaches, others are blessed with three hundred and sixty five rivers. Such is the case of Dominica.

Sandwiched between the French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe, Dominica, or Waitukubuli, as the naïve Kalinago (Carib Indians) refer to it, is an anomaly. It is often said that if Christopher Columbus were to return to the Caribbean it would be the one island he would recognize. Why? Because in an era where many of its neighbors have sold off, and are still continuing to sell off, huge plots of land to developers, for the construction of mega resorts, Dominica is carefully guarding and preserving her history, traditions and natural resources—it is the only island in the Caribbean where descendants of the pre-Columbian Kalinago or Carib Indians still live, on ancestral land that was given to them.

This unusual path, has made Dominica, the Caribbean’s premier eco tourist destination. It is often referred to as the “nature isle:” The Caribbean’s premier hiking destination. And rightly so! Vast areas of the island have been converted to national parks, including Morne Trois Pitons, a world heritage site, and Cabrits National Park. The Waitukubuli (big is her body) trail runs the entire length of the island: from Scotts Head in the south to Cabrits National Park in the north. Dominica does have a few nice beaches. But it’s safe to say that visitors to Dominica are lured not by her beaches, but by her volcanic peaks, dense tropical rainforests, her numerous rivers, waterfalls, by her rugged, untamed, natural, beauty.

Getting there: Getting to Dominica will involve some sort of transfer. The island main airport, Melville Hall, is small. Visitors from North America, or Europe will transfer to a connecting flight from Puerto Rico, Barbados, Antigua, or St. Lucia.
Prices from the airport varies based on destination.

There is also a ferry service (L’Express Des Iles) between St. Lucia and Guadeloupe, with stops in Dominica, Marie, Galant, and Martinique.

Ticket prices varies. It’s also possible and cheaper to fly to Guadeloupe, Martinique, or St. Lucia and transfer to the ferry service.

Accommodations: hotels, guest houses, camping ground, wellness retreats.  No mega resorts here.  Accommodations can range from high end to basic.

Hibiscus Valley Inn: great value for money, with individual bungalows. A basic room without air condition, T.V, or meals starts at $49. Close to hiking trails, Kalinago, or Carib territory, airport.

Currency: Dominica uses the Eastern Caribbean dollar. U.S dollars are widely accepted.

Things to do:

Hike: Waitukubuli National Trail: at 115 miles, it is the longest of its kind in the Caribbean. There are 14 segments, ranging from easy to very difficult. Each segment offers a different topography, and terrain. Many of the trails were established by the native Kalinago people prior to Columbus’ arrival, and later by escaped slaves. 

The Boiling Lake: Located inside the Morne Trois Piton National Park, it is the second largest of its kind. Getting there is a downright dangerous expedition. Wear proper attire, and shoes. It’s quite possible, that like me, you’ll end up ankle deep in mud, and water. You’ll crossed countless streams, the wind will threaten to toss you of ridges, and the rain will seem unrelenting. Prepare for very steep ascents, and equally steep descents. Put your faith in the guides. They will get you there safely. An eight hour trek, four hours in, four hours out, through some of the most treacherous terrain you’ll encounter. But once there you will understand why people risk life and limb to get there. Price $89usd.

The Valley of Desolation: If the name conjures up a frightening image, that’s because it’s exactly that. Add the putrid smell of sulphur, gurgling sounds from deep within the rocks, and the image is complete. What’s even scarier is that visitors have to climb down that gorge in order to get to the boiling lake (there is no other alternative). Think rock climbing without safety equipment, and what could quite possibly be a 200-300 foot drop.

Morne Diablotin National Park: the island’s highest mountain. During the 18^th century, it was home to seven different encampments of runaway slaves.

Morne Anglais Trail: at almost 4000ft, it is one of the tallest mountains in the south.

Many hotels have hiking packages, which include transportation, a guide, and lunch. Prices: vary depending on location. $69 usd, seems to be the average rate.

Diving and snorkeling: Champagne beach, gas bubbles from volcanic activity rising from the sea bed creates this underwater scenery that makes diving and snorkeling a fantastic experience.

Things to see:

Titou Gorge: Located at the entrance to the Morne Piton Trois National Park where scenes from Pirates of the Caribbean 2 were filmed. Visitors have to swim inside the gorge to witness one of nature’s most spectacular scenery.

Water Falls: Dominica is the land of many rivers, and waterfalls. Most of these require a hike, some easier than others.

Trafalgar Falls

Emerald pool

Sari Sari Falls

Middleham Falls

Victoria Falls

Prices vary based on location.

Carib Territory: Located on the north eastern end of the island, the Carib territory, or Carib reserve was establish for the kalinago people, descendants of the island’s original inhabitants. Visitors can tour a replica Carib village, taste cassava bread, baked on site, and listen to a brief history of the Kalinago people, complete with photographs. There is also a souvenir shop, filled with authentic Kalinago crafts.

Note: of the over three thousand, inhabitants of the territory, four hundred are identified as pure Kalinago, or Carib.

Price $20 usd.

Getting around: many hotels with hiking packages provide transportation. Visitors who prefer to be mobile, can rent a car. Buses and taxis are widely available.

Dominica is a hotbed of volcanic activity. Nine of the Caribbean’s sixteen volcanoes are located here. The island is littered with Sulphur springs: notable Soufriere Sulphur springs: Wotten Waven: the valley of desolation.

There are numerous other hiking trails that can be explored with or without a guide. Dominica is safe, and the people are friendly and very helpful. On our numerous hikes, we came across many solo hikers. The trails are well maintained and there are markers to ensure you’re on the right track. And no matter how deep into the rain forest you are, note, you are never far from civilization. As one guide said to me, “all you have to do is follow the river, of which there are many, and you’ll be safe.”

Suiphur pool

Cabrits national park in the distance

View from the Carib Territory